Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Roasting in Leipzig

This morning I slept in until 8:00. The heat yesterday really wiped everyone out. Then it was off to the Mendelssohn Haus which is one of my favorite places. Of course, I ended up buying a bunch of stuff. Then we went back to the hotel to cool off for awhile. 

From here we took a walk around town and headed to the Thomaskirche. We spent a good deal of time here and even though I have been here many times before, it has the same effect as Wittenberg in that you can't help but stand in awe and it is nearly impossible to wrap your brain around it. Since I have been here before I did not take nearly as many pictures as the other times but I will share with  you a few I did take. Excuse the way I look, but it was so hot I was pretty much melting!





After this we returned to the hotel to cool off. It was well over 90 which is very unusual for Germany and the heat was exhausting. I felt like I was in Chicago rather than Leipzig. After 30 minutes of relaxing the next stop was the Nikolaikirche where Bach also worked. Granted this one is not nearly as interesting, but fun to visit anyway.  

After another short break from the heat (Thank God I our hotel had air conditioning! Not all of them do of course...) we went to meet Chris and Elizabeth and had a nice visit with them. They even let me hold their baby and I enjoyed talking with their older sonThomas. Then we all attended an organ concert together in the Thomaskirche. Oliver Latry Was the recitalist. Ross and I had quite a conversation about this concert afterwards. 

It was fun to be here during the Bachfest and especially wonderful since it is the celebration of the Thomaskirche being 800 years old.  Yes, you read that right. 800 years old. 

Once the concert was done we met the choir for an excellent dinner at a famous restaurant and I must say at this point in the trip I have gotten to know the people better and rather enjoy visiting with them. While traveling with a group does have some drawbacks overall I would say it has been a fine trip so far. 

After dinner Ross and I took one final walk around Leipzig since we leave tomorrow. We stopped by to visit Felix on the way back to our hotel. 



All in all it was a good day spent in one of my favorite cities. I wish it was a little longer but I was grateful for the time we did have and I'm confident I will be back many times in the future!

Tuesday, June 18, 2013

A very hot day

Today we got up and packed our bags up and headed to Torgau. It was another scorcher of a day and we were all melting in the heat. Once here we visited the castle and the bears that guard it. We climbed up to the top of the tower for a birds eye view as well. 



From here we took a walk over to see the church where Katarina Luther is buried. I was quite excited about this.


After this we drove to the tiny town of Nimbschen to see the cloister where Katy lived. Only a portion of it still stands but it was wonderful to stand there and imagine what it must have been like. We also had our devotions there, which was really neat. 



Finally, we ended in Leipzig where we will be for two nights. The hotel is fantastic and thankfully air conditioned. With the heat being so bad and knowing many hotels aren't air conditioned, I was most thankful for this. As if that wasn't good enough, the view from my window was stunning.



All in all it was a good day, though I was tired and hot so it isn't the most clear in my memory. 

Monday, June 17, 2013

Gräfenhainichen, Halle, and a final evening in Wittenberg

Today we got up early and headed to Gräfenhainichen where our first stop was the Paul Gehardt Chapel which is more of a little museum than a chapel. It  a super awesome to look around all of this! We had our devotions here..... And I got to play the organ! It was an unexpected surprise and it didn't take any convincing at all for me to play it. 




The case was beautiful and I think much of the pipe work is original, but unfortunately, whoever decided to restore this little 7 stop one manual (no pedal) organ didn't consult me. Or Ross. The action was modern. Ugh! It was hard to be musical or sensitive on this heavy action. None the less, I got to play. 

After devotions we took a short walking tour of the town. We saw the spot where Gehardt was born, though the original building burned down long ago. Then we went to the church he was baptized in. Super amazing. 


I am also including a picture of the crucifix. We all know my favorite parts of  Europe are organs, graves, and crucifixes. I wanted to take it home, but figured that would not be advisable. 


After this we hopped on the bus and were off to Halle. Outside the church was a list of organist. Look at these names!



Inside the church are two organs. Handel played the one in the front. I would have killed to play it but for various reasons it did not work out. I did, however cough up a lot of euros and bought every CD they had for sale and can't wait to hear them. Here is the organ I would have liked to play. 


The gentleman in charge of the church let us in a little back room to see the death mask of Luther. Also, there was a plaster cast taken that was the. I've seen these before, but supposedly the one here is the original, which got me all excited in a nerdy sort of way. 




From here it was back to Wittenberg for an afternoon of free time. I toured the Luther house and enjoyed every second of that, though I didn't take any pictures.  I also went into the Lucas Cranach house and toured the museum there. After this I met up with the group for a dinner that proved quite amusing, and then Ross and I took one final walk around Wittenberg. I adore this city and the weather tonight was perfectly delightful, with the sun being up until after 10 allowing us to enjoy the cooler evening and walk by all these important churches and buildings one more time. We ship out tomorrow at 8am for another day packed full. 

Sunday, June 16, 2013

Sunday #1

This morning was beautiful. There were lots of birds chirping and the stillness of the morning was often interrupted by the call of church bells in various spots in the city. I will never tire of hearing those church bells and wish more churches in America had real bells and not just electronic ones (or nothing at all). It was quite lovely to get ready and enjoy a leisurely breakfast before church.  

We attended church at the Castle Church in Wittenberg. While I have always wanted to go to church where Luther was, it is a state church and therefore somewhat of a hodge podge of theology and liturgy. It didn't help matters that the church is all scaffolding and plywood right now. The service was similar to other non-SELK churches I've attended..... A sermon preached on a random Bible story rather than the Gospel, a whole mix of music that didn't necessarily support the readings, taking the children out of church mid way through the service (this just makes me sad!) and communion with a varied group of helpers and with grape juice instead of wine (or so we were told before hand. I don't know for sure if this was the case since I didn't go.) Needless to say, I felt like more of an observer than a participant. It did remind me of how blessed I am to be at Redeemer where we have a pastor who preaches clear law/gospel on the appointed texts of the day and where we follow the liturgy and celebrate the Eucharist every week. The fact that I missed being at Redeemer confirmed for me that Redeemer is so much more than just a job for me. 

After church, we had some free time the went to Berlin for a very fast tour. I didnt feel too upset since I have been here before. My favorite part was going through the Memorial to the Murdered Jews in Europe. I cannot even describe how vast this memorial is. The picture below really doesn't do it justice. It is deep and powerful to walk through this. It's quite sobering to go through and hard to wrap ones mind around how many people were killed. You get swallowed up by the memorial and feel alone and its so cold and somewhat disorienting to be inside it even though it is laid out in rows. I left wondering how humanity gets to that point. Is sick, really. Hopefully memorials like this serve as powerful reminders so we don't ever make the same mistakes again. 



Once back in Wittenberg we enjoyed a great meal together and even got to eat outside, which I prefer over eating inside. After dinner we did a quick walking tour of Wittenberg and saw the spot where Marty burned up the papal bull. Sweet! 



I have been here many times and an still finding new things. We walked around the city until sometime after 10:00PM. 

Saturday, June 15, 2013

What the heck happened in Wittenberg?!?!

Today was another early start but of course I was not about to miss a German breakfast so I dragged myself up early enough to eat before we left. After eating sufficient cheeses, eggs, rolls, butter and jams, we loaded the bus (this time with luggage) and were off for a longer bus ride to see the spot where Luther was caught in the lightning storm and called on Saint Anne.  Once we arrived at the place we took some pictures and did the spoken order of morning prayer from LSB as our morning devotions. We sang A Mighty Fortress and got many looks from cars passing by. 



After this we jumped back on the bus and rode quite aways to get to Eisleben, making a pit stop at a German McDonalds along the way. I didn't get anything but I do like German McDonalds much better than American ones. Once at Eisleben we first visited the death house of Luther. I've been there before but they have changed it up a bit in preparation for the big celebration in 2017. I totally love the death house. It's amazing to stand in the house he died in. As you all know, I have a extraordinary fascination with old graves and such. Here are a couple pictures from the death house and no, that is not Luther in the coffin. 





After going through this we took a quick look through the church where Luther preached his last 4 sermons. I did not take any pictures because it cost to take pictures and I have pictures from a previous trip. From here we took a short jog across town to the church Luther was born in. (No pictures, same explanation as other church) and then to the birth house where we went through the super amazing museum and saw a reconstruction of what his house may have looked like. I also had been here before but they have changed it a bit as well. I stopped for a quick pose with Marty on the way out. I put my arm around his shoulder but don't worry, I didn't actually touch the statue or set off any alarms or anything like that. 



After this it was back on the bus and off to Wittenberg. Once we got there I waked into Castle Church.  As is the case every time I enter those doors, my heart started pounding. This time though, it was out of pure shock. Here is what I saw. 



Nice organ loft, huh?

Quite a bit different than what I remembered. Again, huge restoration for the 500 year anniversary. The work will not be done until 2016. It will be restored to how it as in 1892, so it will end up a little different than what I'm used to, giving me reason to go back once it is complete. Of course, 1892 is long after Luther and I personally wish they would restore it to how it was in Luther's time but no one asked me. Fortunately, both Luther's and Melanchton's headstones weren't covered up (though the floor around was all covered in plywood) so I got a chance to stand at the foot of their graves and stare and marvel and be lost for words. 

After this we got to walk around town so I took Ross to see the city church and the wonderful Cranach altar there. We walked in and it was covered as well for restoration. My heart sunk big time. I was so disappointed!!! I'm grateful to have been here a couple other times to see it but I had wanted to see it again. 

We walked down the street to the Melanchtonhaus and decided to pay the four euro to go through it. Boy was that worth it! Totally redone and had lots for adults AND kids. (Making it family friendly for the mobs of tourists in 2017, you know.) I stopped to pose with the Melanchthon family. 



Just a room over from this was the room where he died. Of course I thought this was super cool and had to stand and stare and take a picture. 


The final rooms contained several busts and books and even old letters in Phil's own handwriting. As you can imagine, I sat there gawking like a complete fool. Then, I got one final picture with this awesome guy I admire so much. I tried to copy his facial expression. There were a zillion busts so I combined them all. Not sure that worked but it made for a funny picture. 

Here is the house from the outside. 



Then it was off to our hotel and a buffet style dinner that was wonderful. Lots of root vegetables, fries with German mayonnaise, mushrooms, rice, and bitter lemon. After dinner it was time for a little stroll through the city, quick stop at the ATM, and now as I sit here blogging it is 9:37 and here is the view from my window. 



The birds are singing, there aren't any bugs, the temperature is pleasantly cool and the blinds are fluttering in the light breeze. I'm smelling flowers mingled with smoke (the smoking here is one thing I will never grow to love) and savoring every moment of being in this place. I slept only 3 hours last night and won't likely sleep anytime soon, not wanting to waste any time here!! I am so blessed to have the opportunity to be here again!

Friday, June 14, 2013

Cranach, Luther, and Bach, oh my!

Today was rather busy. We first got up and enjoyed a big wonderful German breakfast. I ate a ton, knowing I may or may not be able to eat stuff later in the day, being vegetarian and all. 

We loaded the bus by 8:00 and were off to Wartburg to see the castle. Remarkably, it was sunny. I've never been here when it was sunny so it was good to know sun does exist here. 



We took the guided tour and my favorite place is still the uppermost level where there is the banquet hall. It is splendid and you can't even imagine what it is like unless you get to go in person. 



Then we toured the part on your own and I saw again the room where Marty translated the Bible  to German  and also standardized the German language. I will never ever get tired of seeing this room. I get chills every time just thinking of all the history. 



When we went through the museum I peered through a doorway and saw 2 doors down some Cranach paintings. Anyone who knows me at all knows how I feel about Cranach. I made a beeline and passed over everything to see these. I stood there and stared and that's how I spent time time in that part of the museum. I had Ross take a picture and you can see how happy I am to be so close to Cranach paintings!



From here we took a short bus drive back to Eisenach and went to Georgenkirche. It was here that J.S. Bach was baptized. Holy moly. Here's the font where it happened. Holy moly. 



Then we went past the Luther house to the the Bachhaus. I've been here before, of course, but it just never gets old. I still got chills during the instrument demonstration and I about went crazy because I couldn't play them. I've been in Germany 3 days and haven't touched a key or pedal yet. Anyway, on the way I decided to strike a pose with Bach and grabbed my pen and paper and tried to pose just as he was. 



After that we had some free time so we walked around the city and had a nice conversation with the Pastor leading the tour. We made lots of fun L CMS connections and talked about ministry and churches and church politics. I loved it. We all went to dinner together. Turns I couldn't eat much of what was served, but they had bitter lemon which was good enough for me! After dinner, we went back to the hotel for devotions, hour rehearsal, and bed. 

I'm seeing both pros and cons of traveling with a group (haven't done it since study tour) and am not yet sure if I love it or hate it. It certainly has both advantages and disadvantages. Hmmmmm 



Thursday, June 13, 2013

Lots of Luther

Today we woke up early and headed back to the airport where we met up with the rest of the Holy Cross choir. They all arrived looking tired and I was glad I already had a day to get over jet lag! We hopped on the bus with Silvia, our bus driver, who is going to be loads of fun! 

We first headed off to Schmalkalden, which I was excited about since I have wanted to go there but it's sort of out of the way and not easily accessible by public transportation. Obviously this is a place of historic importance for Lutherans. If you want to know why, go find yourself a book on the history of the Reformation and read it because reading is good for you and I'm too lazy to type out the history for your convenience. In any case, here's the building where it all happened. 


For the record, it turns out there is an organ of great importance in Schmalkalden and I missed it. Had I known I would have tried to arrange to play it. I'm rather irked about this little detail, especially since I don't have as many organs lined up for this trip as I would like...

From there we visited the supposed site where Marty was kidnapped. I say supposed because of course no one knows the EXACT spot but it was fun to see and see the spring and we had a devotion there. 



Then we headed to eat our seven course meal meal in Eisenach which lasted more than 2 hours. It was pretty funny and included lots of yelling and shots, sausages that were one meter long, a huge horn full of mead that was passed around the table for everyone to drink from, and fruit that was doused in alcohol and sugar and set ablaze. Needless to say it was a little touristy for my taste but fun for the group and certainly a lot of laughter and good conversation. 

We got to our hotel and I was pleased to find large bathroom sinks and racks to heat up towels. Obviously this translates into easy laundry options! Yippee!  I wasn't pleased to find the typical German bathtub that is rather high off the ground and a shower head attachment but no curtain. I swear, it's always an adventure over here. 

It was a rather full day but fun. I am already seeing both the pros and cons of traveling with a tour group and am glad I will have time to do my own thing once they leave. We have already made some fun lutheran connections of the people on the trip. Small world. 

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

We have arrived!

I'm sitting in my hotel in Kelsterbach fighting jet lag. I am quite tired but must stay awake a bit longer. It is always strange to loose sense of time and I'm not even sure what day it is at the moment.

I left Elgin and a very, very sad little puppy on Tuesday. My little Poco was so, so sad. I've never seen him that sad when I've left before. I think perhaps I've been doing this enough that has has figured out this suitcase means a long trip. He followed me all morning with a sad trail, threw up twice (nervous tummy?) and would snuggle into me and lay his head on my shoulder when I picked him up. Then, as I loaded the car, he got mad at me. I felt so bad and wanted to cry leaving him like that. I'm thankful that my parents and sister will spoil him rotten while I am away.

In addition to fretting over Poco, I fretted about my luggage. I'm not taking that much more stuff but my carry in size suitcase is packed. I can't figure it out.

We got through security rather quickly and sat to wait for the plane to board. Some woman sat down across from where I was sitting and had a pet cage with her. She opened the door and took out a lovely little female Maltese. Well, in my current state this was not good and I felt even worse being separated for Poco for so long. But, there is no way he can come with. I watched this little dog bark at  people passing by and eventually fall asked on the woman's lap. So loyal, Maltese are.

The flight to Warsaw was, for the most part, uneventful. I wasn't able to sleep, but whatever. It was frustrating to see Germany pass by on the map but we couldn't parachute out and it was cheapest to do it this way. We were on the ground in Poland for all of an hour before being airborne again. Once in Germany we took the shuttle to our hotel and took a long walk.

It's good to be back. It's so familiar to me here, and I was reminded of this while in Poland where things felt so foreign. I've counted down days and hours since I returned last summer and now here I am, back in the land I love so dearly. I'm happy as a clam, and the only thing that would make it better is if Poco was here.

Tuesday, June 4, 2013

One Week....

One week from today, I will be getting on that plane. In some ways, I'm very ready to be there. In fact, on some levels, I've already checked out. In other ways, I feel like I could use another month of preparation. Anyway you look at it, I'm very much in pre-trip mode. The huge mess of piles in my room as I work on packing is testimony to this. I have clothes and shoes and music strewn everywhere.

As a side note, I attended a gradation this evening for the kids I student taught with long ago. They were in second grade the spring I student taught. Tonight they graduated. I feel old. Being back brought back a rush of old memories and emotions and it was a little strange to be back and see them. I didn't recognize some of them since they'd changed so much. Some didn't change a bit. Some of the staff was the same, others were new since I'd been there. It was all very surreal like being in some strange time warp. And, it made me feel old. Very old.

Life is a funny adventure, and I'm ready to be in Germany. I come alive in Germany. American organs aren't cutting it any more. My music comes alive there, too.

One week from today.....

Saturday, June 1, 2013

Very close

Well, June has arrived which can only mean one thing.... Germany is just around the corner.  In some ways, I have never been so behind in planning for a trip before, but in others, I have never been so ready to go. This year's trip will include some old favorite cities as well as some new ones and will be a little different because I will be meeting up with a choir for a chunk of the trip. After having traveled with only a friend or two for so many years, I am not totally certain if I will like traveling with a big group. It certainly will make travel easier, but also won't allow me the flexibility and freedom I'm used to. In any case, I am excited for time to recharge, play old organs, an soak up the culture I love so much. In the meantime, I will be frantically practicing, getting things in order at work, and packing. (For any who know me well, you know packing and figuring out maximum space in a small carry on is half of my fun.)

So, welcome back to my blog. I hope to post often and it is my goal to actually finish the trip and not stop blogging halfway through. I'm glad you are joining me, and feel free to get on my case if I stop blogging before I'm back in America.